This walk is approximately 11 miles (18 km) and should take
approximately 4 to 5 hours. There are buses between Crail and St Andrews every hour
or so.
Once upon a time, there was a castle at Kingsbarns which was used to defend the coastline against the plundering Danes. The castle became a store for food produced by the fertile farmlands - for use by the Palace at Falkland. The castle was destroyed at the end of the 1700s.
The village takes its name from the existence of extensive barns which used to be on the site now occupied by the village. These were used for storing the grain of the Royal household when the King was either in residence at Crail Castle or Falkland Palace. The village was, until 1633, part of the parish of Crail after which it became a separate parish.
Our walk starts at the carpark on the shore where there are a number of picnic tables and toilets. At low tide, this area is rich in rock pools with many varieties of seaweeds and sea creatures.
The old harbour wall at Kingsbarns was built before the days of modern cement and the harbour stones had to be chosen and placed with great care. A second harbour wall was built by local people around 1860 and this harbour was tidal and unusable at low tide. The harbour extension was for the export of potatoes. The harbour has been unused since about 1927 and has fallen into disuse, though the outlines of the harbour are still visible.
From the nearby farms of Boghall and Sandhill, there are tracks leading down to the shore. Passing along the shore, and passing Airbow point, bird tracks are often seen in the sand, especially near to the water's edge. Walking along the long sandy beach of course sand, we start to make the rise toward the Babbet Ness. An old hut near the shore may be seen from here. The Babbet Ness describes the rocky promontory hereabouts. A netted area in a field close to the shore here is most likely used for rearing game birds, such as pheasants or partridges.
A high wall protects the shore from further erosion and it is near this point the we may wish to take the track up towards Chesterfield Farm, then carry on a bit further to Boarhills village, passing a rectangular doocot on the way. The tiny village of Boarhills has a small school and a church which stands some way from the village.
Carry on northwards for about 500 metres until we reach a low stone wall. This leads into a field with a cattle shed. This was the old lifeboat station, built between 1860 and 1890. It is now open only on the landward side. Alongside there is a deep pit filled with some water. Soil profiles can be seen showing the layers of soil and sand. In various places there are holes in the side, one large enough to have been made by a fox. there are also a number of rabbit burrows.
About 500 metres from the old lifeboat station, we come to another shore stack, the Buddo Rock. The sea has now isolated this formation from the cliffs, and a natural arch gives the Buddo Rock its distinctive appearance. Another 800 metres and the shore reaches the Buddo Ness.
It is easy to see why this name applies to these rocks as the main rock closely resembles a spinning wheel. This is a volcanic plug which has been revealed as the surrounding layers of calciferous sandstone has been worn away by the action of the sea and the weather. This is the centre of a whole series of vents and fissures in the area.
There are often unusually large beds of seaweed at this spot. A closer look reveals a wide variety of seaweeds including oar weed, sea belt, cat o' nine tails, channel knotted, serrated and bladder wracks, red and green seaweeds.
About 30 metres from the Rock and Spindle there is the Whale Rock - reminding us of the connection with a stranded whale on this site in the late 1930s.
There is a path descending to the Maiden's Rock, a large sandstone shore stack. It was once a part of a large rock mass, but because it was of harder material than the surrounding material, it has better resisted the seas erosion. Although the sea no longer surrounds the rock, the weather and frost continues to sculpt its features. The grassy area around the base of the rock makes a good spot for picnics.
A few metres beyond the Maiden's Rock, on the shore, there lies an encrinite bed. The beds are weathered pieces of stone which hold the tiny cylindrical white bodies of the fossilised encrinites - ancient ancestors of the starfish family.
From the Maiden's rock, we walk towards the caravan site. The path continues through a gorse thicket, a favourite residence for small birds such as robins, finches, tits and blackbirds. This area shows a multitude of wild flowers in summer. The blackthorn is one of the few shrubs found on the braes, mixed with gorse and the odd hawthorn bush.
At the end of the caravan site, follow the path to the
cliff top of Kinkell Braes. From here there is a good view of the rocks below. At low
tide, one can see the twisted and tilted rock strata - a result of violent earth movements
and disturbances thousands of years ago. On a fine day, a panoramic view can be had of the
Tentsmuir Forest and the Sidlaw Hills in Angus.
This area is known as the Witches Pool and nestled in the rocks (sandstone) there is a small cave. Continue around the point above which used to be the local bathhouse. Above can be seen a drain and below a trough with a short portion of old wall above - all the evidence of the old bathhouse. Just around the rocks, one comes to a seawater bathing pool, and a small pool, once reached from the house above. This house was once part of St Leonard's School, but is now part of the University.
Looking back towards the step rock pool , one can see the blocked-up entrance to a cave. The gate leading from the path is now firmly locked and covered with barbed wire. The rocks round about here are supported by large concrete pillars.
Continue now along the rocks beneath the castle. Once round this point, there is a pathway to the road. Round the point, one can see the towers and the Fore Tower with the rocks below the castle - full of small drainage holes. To the south, the Cathedral can be seen. The little 'Castle Bay' here is a lovely sheltered spot for picknickers and there is a retaining wall forming another small seawater swimming pool.
A cautionary note:
To take this walk, the tide must be low, and likely to stay that way for at least 2 hours. Even then, look out for the slippery rocks and the rock pools which are all too easy to slip right into.
You can only go via the rocks to Castle Pool (allow 1 hour) and The Pier (allow 2 hours) if the tide is low and is going to remain that way for the times specified.
Off shore rocks here are known as Long Craigs or Doo Craigs (from Gaelic Dubh Creag - Black Rock). Nearby is the car park and beyond it is the Bowbutts Area with Pierrot's Pavillion - now a tearoom - open during the summer season. In the middle ages, men would hone their archery skills at the Bowbutts.
It is necessary to leave the shore to get around to he Step Rock Pool via the Bowbutts. The rock sticking out here is known as the Step. Here is the Martyr's Monument on the Bowbutts.
The Step Rock Pool was a well appointed seawater pool now sadly little used, with the pool silted-up and with the now familiar notices warning that swimming is at your own risk. Unusually, the changing huts are still there with the Ladies' and Gentlemens' shelters.
Seawards from there are the Step Rocks and the Step Lake. On the cliffs of Witches Hill, many pairs of nesting Fulmars can be seen between December and July. In late summer, it is interesting to see the young Fulmars on the shore rocks as they attempt to fly. Up above Witches Hill is the Scores.
If the tide is suitable, continue around the next point along the rocks - known here first as the Lady Rocks then as the Hind Rocks. Below the yellow sandstone rocks, at one point an entrance is seen with steps leading up and blocked off with yellow sandstones. This was the entrance to Lady Buchan's Cave.
Continue around the point and ahead can be seen the pier, along which every Sunday afternoon the students parade their red gowns. This pier was destroyed in 1655, but was rebuilt in 1668 using stones from the Cathedral after it was destroyed in 1560 by the Reformation sweeping Scotland.
On the shore here again is a bar across the rocks. This retains water and was once used for sea-bathing. Lady Buchan's Cave was originally called St Rule's Cave and it was thought that when St Rule (aka Regulus) stayed in the cave when he came to St Andrews - or Mucross as it was then called. The cave acquired its modern name when it was used by Lady Buchan for tea parties and picnics.
The West Sands are a long expanse of wonderful clean sands. Above the high tide zone are sand dunes bound by marram grass and, just beyond these, the road out to the point. On the other side of the road are found the four golf courses, including the world famous Royal and Ancient course.
The West Sands are often used for windsurfing and sandsurfing.
Rounding Out Point, one comes to the West Sands - near the point there are notices warning of the dangers of swimming. Swimming is not safe until we are closer to St. Andrews. Continue walking until you reach the Swilken Burn and the small pier at its side.
Climb up the steps to the Pier and walk around the little harbour at the mouth of the Kinkell Burn.
Last updated February 12, 1999
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