Hook Binding Guide (but graphics should be turned on to appreciate this page)

Tying Hooks to Nylon

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The technique described in the following text has been evolved during several years of trial and error. To anyone trying to follow this method I would recommend experimenting with the different approaches to the problem, as I do not believe that I have found the perfect solution. Many years ago good quality bound hooks were purchased from a well-known Scottish fishing tackle manufacturer. These were of exceptionally high standards of security and finish, and I don't think I even come close to achieving these standards. After dismantling the last of the bought hooks, discontinued after the death of the man that used to tie these fine objects, I have concluded that the method described is something like the original

  • Equipment Required

  • Good quality fly tying vice

  • Block of Bees wax

  • Good sharp small scissors

  • Selection of thread clamps or surgical artery forceps

  • Good quality hooks of the required

I have found in recent years that hooks for whipping with nice slightly serrated shanks ceased to be available, and I had to resort to cutting off the eye from commercially produced hooks and causing a slight serration of the shank by gripping them with a strong pair of pliers or engineers vice (Or Vise in the USA)..

Thread used for binding must be fine but strong. I found sewing cotton to be too thick. Silk thread used for tying flies tends to flatten and is therefore of no use. Selected thread must be of round section and has to maintain this profile under pressure. A brand called Drimmill came close to what was required, and was all I ever used.

I have specified using the best quality materials in the above list. The tying of hooks is a time consuming business and the use of below standard materials would be a great waste of time, and a great deal of effort.

  • Method


    First wind the required quantity of nylon onto a finger, tucking the end through the formed loop about three times to hold the loop secure during the following operations.

    Wax a length of thread by passing the thread quickly through the bee's wax. This has to be done with some speed, as the friction of the thread passing through the solid wax causes temporary melting of the wax and successfully penetrates the fibres that make up the thread.

    With the hook secure in the vice, wind the thread coarsely onto the hook shank. This layer forms a corrugated bed on the shank of the hook. During the whipping of the hook, the nylon is forced into these corrugations, and gives a much better grip than binding the nylon onto the bare hook shank.

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    Next take a few turns of thread on the lower part of the hook shank, this is to hold everything steady. At this point it is essential to tension the nylon along the shank of the hook. I prefer to route the nylon along the hook shank through the vice head and anchor securely to the tension button on the vice. This is important as the nylon will twist around the hook during the binding stage and give a poor, and indeed very weak finish to the bound hook.

    With all secure, continue to whip the thread up the shaft of the hook, apply as much pressure as the thread will take. As you get more experienced at this task you might find that easing the tension as the thread crosses the nylon will give a better finish, but I must emphasise that the overall tension imparted must be the absolute maximum Having reached as far as you deem necessary along the hook shank, it is now time to cut the nylon and excess thread from the open end of the hook, as near to the binding as possible. I find that cutting the nylon with the hot end of a lighted cigarette gives a small globule of molten nylon at the end of the trace and therefore would be more difficult to pull through the binding. For those not addicted to the Lady Nicotine, perhaps the use of a small electrical soldering iron would suffice.

    Continue whipping until the ends of nylon and thread are covered then finish by taking about four turns, going over the slack end of the binding thread. This is done by forming a loop and turning the loop over the loose thread end. Keep tension on the loop with a needle or similar instrument, and pull the end of the thread until a neat end is formed. Cut off the thread as close to the binding as possible.

    I usually finish off with a coat of fly tying varnish, this amalgamates with the wax in the thread, and, although touch dry within about an hour, it takes a long time to harden. I repeat this process another two times, leaving about a week in between coats. To finish, undo the small tight loops of nylon, Tie a loop at the open end, coil into larger loops ( about two fingers ) and place in suitable individual packets. I find the self-seal polythene packets, available from stationers are ideal for this task.

    BRIAN

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