The learner motorcyclist usually thinks to use the rear brake the most when first learning to ride, probably from learning to ride a bicycle. This is definitely the wrong method. Just look at a motorbikes brake system and you will instantly see that the front brake is the biggest. That's because when you brake, the weight of the bike and rider are thrown forward which pushes the front wheel down giving increased grip, thus making the front end the most efficient to apply braking to. But you can't just use the front brake as this would make the rear of the machine 'light' inducing a tendency to lose control of the rear of the machine. So, as in the diagram, you need to use a combination of both brakes but applying most pressure to the front.

Sit astride your machine.

Apply the front brake only and get someone to push the bike forward from behind. Notice how the front of the bike dips, compressing the front suspension, pushing the tyre against the road surface.

Now release the front and apply the rear brake only. This time when the bike is pushed forward the rear dips, increasing grip to the rear tyre.

Now try them both together. The machine will compress evenly this time.

So, for the most efficient braking, under normal conditions, apply the front brake marginally before applying the rear brake and apply most of the pressure to the front brake. Some people like to express it as a percentage, in which case you would imagine it as 75% front and 25% rear braking.

When riding slowly, such as when traveling in a queue of traffic or filtering, only the rear brake is needed. This gives better control as your right hand can just concentrate on keeping a reasonably steady throttle position and the rear brake is usually smoother as it has less 'bite' to it.

Braking should always be done upright and in a straight line, not when cornering. Your slowest speed when negotiating any bends or corners should be at the entrance to that bend, progressively increasing speed out of it. If you need to brake half way around a bend then you've got it all wrong.

Braking on a bend could make you lose control as, like accelerating, braking can bring the machine upright and if you're upright you aren't going to be going round any bends! If the machine is leant over some way, then you also run the risk of skidding and the bike sliding away as the tyres lose grip. If you must brake in a bend then avoid using the front brake or use it very gingerly, instead rely on the rear brake and some engine braking (i.e. reduce the amount of throttle). Remember bikes nowadays have excellent handling capabilities and that bend might just be negotiable without braking, but that will take some time to learn and trust your machine, better safe than sorry.

Riding conditions play a big part in braking. Generally the worse the conditions, surface and weather, the more likely you are to skid and hence crash. To counter this threat, braking is applied differently depending on just how bad things are. This is because if there is a chance you are going to skid, due to locking a wheel, it's better to lock up at the rear than the front, as a front wheel skid will almost certainly result in a crash. Locking the rear wheel doesn't have such an instant effect and you will have time to ease of the rear brake, regain control, and then reapply it without quite so much pressure on the lever.

If we consider the weather first, good conditions (nice and sunny!) mean normal braking (75% front-25% rear). As the weather deteriates (as it does in the UK!) to rain, braking should be adjusted rearward (50%-50%). If that rain then becomes very heavy more pressure should be applied to the rear (25%-75%). If you are unlucky enough to be riding in conditions such as snow or ice, then leave the front brake at home! (0%-100% rear).

The road surface is just as important. Always take note of the road surface, in particular try to avoid pot-holes, drain covers (especially when wet), repaired surfaces and the shiny black bitumen used to join the two surfaces (overbanding), any paint on the road, even the cats eyes on main roads. Newly laid gravel surfaces are a real hazard to motorcyclists, in which case you must reduce your speed and rely on the rear brake if possible. The road surface prior to resurfacing usually consists of lots of ruts/tramways where they have skimmed of the top layer; this also requires careful negotiating. Beware also any mud or leaves on the road.

Part of the motorcycle test includes an emergency brake exercise. Bringing your machine to a halt without losing control of the machine, in the shortest possible distance, is something you have to be able to do, not just for your test, but for survival on the road!

You must keep the machine upright and apply the maximum effort to both brakes without locking them up!

First

1. Close the throttle.

2. Apply the front brake marginally before the rear - this will set the bike up correctly. (Note: A natural hand movement to reach the front brake lever should include rolling closed the accelerator twist grip!)

3. Start to squeeze the brake levers trying to gauge just how much grip the road surface will give you. Remember the front brake is the most efficient!

4. Don't pull in the clutch lever until the last possible moment, as this would allow the rear wheel to lock up quite easily and reduce the effect of engine braking.

5. Come to a stop with your left foot on the ground and your right foot on the rear brake pedal.

On your test you will know when you are about to do the exercise. On approach to the examiner, who should be standing in the middle of the road, look at the road surface and try to pick a good clear line, avoiding any manhole covers, overbanding, etc. When he raises his hand then you put into practice all that you've been taught. Don't forget that once you have stopped, get the bike to the side of the road out of the way of any traffic.

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