This walk is approximately 8 miles (13 km) and should take
approximately 4 to 5 hours. There are buses between Pittenweem and Crail every hour
or so.
Pittenweem to Anstruther
Yet another links golf course separates Pittenweem from Anstruther. The walk takes you between this and the shore level reefs. Past a tower, which is a war memorial, Anstruther Wester is visible. Anstruther is universally pronounced "Ainster" by the locals.
In Anstruther
Modern Anstruther is actually three villages joined together - Anstruther Wester, Anstruther Easter and Cellardyke. While the two Anstruthers have been close associates through history, the inhabitants of their Cellardyke neighbour have always seen themselves as a people apart. The border between the Anstruthers is marked by the Dreel Burn which has a bridge. Originally, people crossed by the stepping stones or were carried by others! Today cars will cross by the short road bridge, while pedestrians have the choice of road bridge or beach stepping stones - tide permitting !
Anstruther is the largest of the villages of the East Neuk and has many old buildings including its St Adrian's Kirk which has grave stones from the 16th century and whose grounds provide an excellent view of Anstuther Easter and Cellardyke . Anstruther harbour was one of the busiest in Scotland until the decline of the hering fishery signalled a demise in its fortunes and those of its East Neuk neighbours. There is plenty to do around here with the Scottish Fisheries Museum and trips to the Isle of May (in season), 5 miles offshore. 'The May' sits at the mouth of the Forth and was a base for some of the earliest of Christian missionaries, including the venerable St Adrian, the patron saint of many of the East Neuk ports. St Adrian was murdered by raiding Noresmen in the 9th century, but the isle continued its religious role for may centuries after this, David I building a priory here in the 12th century before its inhabitants were forced ashore at Pittenweem by further Norse raids. The May has been home to a lighthouse since 1636, and the remains of the first lighthouse in Scotland can still be seen. The May is now a nature reserve with hundreds of species of migrating birds.
In Cellardyke
The village of Cellardyke (pronounced 'sillur-dyke' - i.e. as in 'silver wall') is situated to the east of Anstruther. Keen rivalry has always marked relations between the folk of Cellardyke and the Anstruthers, all the more remarkable for the lack of noticeable boundary. The 'border' between Anstruther Easter and Cellardyke is marked by the now unseen Caddies Burn running under the School Wynd. Cellardyke also had its own harbour, despite the proximity tothe good harbour at Anstruther.
The village has been known as Cellardyke since at least the 16th century and prior to this it was known as Skinfasthaven or Nether Kilrenny. The latter name betrays the close links of the fishing port to its inland neighbour Kilrenny. Kilrenny is dominated by its parish church and this little village was once the religious focus for Cellardyke. Until relatively recent times, many of the Dykers continued to trudge the muddy miles to pay their devotions here, and many have made this tranquil spot their final resting place in this world. Many of my own relatives are remembered in the kirkyard here, including four generations back of my Gardner roots.
Cellardyke Park has opportunities for abseiling, archery and other activities. Inland from Cellardyke and Kilrenny is Scotland's secret bunker, built to protect the chosen few in the event of a nuclear war, and now a tourist attraction.
Cellardyke to Crail
Leaving Cellardyke, the path continues along the coast near Kilrenny Mill and the Hermits Well and caves. The last were formed by sea erosion before being elevated to their present height at the top of a raised beach. After these, there are the ruins of a salt works dating from around 1700. Rounding West Ness you will see Crail.
In Crail
Crail is one of the most charming towns on the coast. It has several whitewashed stone houses with their red pantiled roofs and crowstep gables. There is a small harbour and nearby a museum. St. Mary's Kirk tower is from the 13th century and its stonework shows scratches and grooves where local archers sharpened their arrowheads. The church was originally dedicated to St. Maelrubha but this was changed in 1243. The bell dates from 1522 and is Dutch again emphasising the links between the locals and the low countries. It rings every night at 10pm. Also in Crail, there is a small family business producing pottery and other souvenirs.
North Carr Lightship at Ainster Harbour
The Fisheries Museum, Ainster
St. Mary's Kirk in Crail
Last updated November 05, 1999
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