updated

September

April May June July August September October Winter

15 March Arrived at Aberdeen Airport to find that Easyjet had canceled the flight to Luton so I arranged to fly the next day.

16 March Aberdeen to Luton then Luton to Grenoble total £45 (flight 1 hour late) Pierre and Willy were there to pick me up and I stayed with Pierre till Monday 20th when Gilbert took me to Valence. We went to Geant Casino and Lidl to buy the heavier provisions. Gilbert went home after a meal and I started to tidy Sufiana.

21 March I paid for 1 month 125.33€. I filled the starboard tank with water - and as I was writing this looked at the level – it had just reached the top. I added Campden tablets to clean it out. Dammit only two tablets left so I pushed aside the stuffed otter and put in denture cleaning tablets – bought for the same purpose. Now for the port tank. Sun is now shining brightly and it is getting warm.

23 March When I tried to start the motor I found its battery flat. I replaced it with a service battery and the motor started at the first turn of the starter. I tested out the free digital camera I got at Luton and found that it worked well as a web cam.

31 March The Rhone is rather full and the current is strong. Perhaps I should stay a little bit longer. I phoned VNF and ordered their vignette for a year. This allows Sufiana to travel through all the canals of France throughout the year for 206€ if paid before April first. This is less than a single passage (8 days £185) through the Caledonian Canal!

4 April. The vignette arrived with two maps of the canal system and a VNF flag 1m x 50 cm. I stuck the vignette in the pocket on the starboard side as indicated in the blurb.

I spent Easter with Pierre and Françoise and then went back to Sufiana at Valence till 22 April Jean-Pierre and Babette came for an evening meal then Babette went back to Sarras to pick up the twins. Jean-Pierre and I tasted various single malts.

 23 April at 0810 set off up the Rhone towards Sarras with Jean-Pierre as crew and the idea of spending the night at Tournon. We were going so well that we passed Tournon at 1115 and pressed on for Sarras steering with the autopilot. We set the stern anchor and moored the bow to the shore all by 1420 when we had a little beer.

26 April Pierre, Françoise, Anais, Adrien, Willy and I headed for Andance at 0930 and arrived there at 1100 - 5.5 km in 90 minutes - 3.7 km/hr. We had lunch, fished a bit and returned in 20 min.16.5 km/hr suggesting an average current of 6.4 km/hr.

1 May had a great meal with Loulou and Dede, Babette, Jean Pierre, Anne Marie, Jean Paul. Also met Camille who had been on Sufiana for a round Corsica trip in 1994.

7 May A picnic with at least 20 ex crew of Sufiana held at Gilbert’s house as it had been raining in the morning making the grass too wet for an outside picnic.

14 May Andance again arriving at 1300 for lunch. Then returned to a concrete mooring south of St Vallier where we fished with little success till 1945. There followed a time of little activity but much eating out and partying.

1 June Pierre and I picked Fiona up at the airport as she had found two flights for 28 pence from Stansted to Grenoble and back.

4 June Françoise, Pierre, Augusta, Michelle, Michel, Gilbert and Fiona were the crew for a trip to Les Roches de Condrieu. We set off at 0735 arriving at 1230. Here we found that the diesel return from the motor to the tank had fractured. It took an hour to repair this. We then had a fine lunch on the new table then filled with fuel. 1.30 € per litre. The return trip took 50 min less as we were with the current.

9 June was the day of Martine’s birthday party at St Uze. A great affair starting with sangria then rose wine with salad, Crozes Hermitage with wild boar. A sweet with Clairette and finishing with a 20 year old Mortlach which was very good - had to be diluted as it started at 53%

10 June Anita, Cristianne, Coryne, Henriette and Michel were the crew for a wee trip up river as far as the barrage at Serrieres. We returned to Andance where we met a reporter who told us that the Canadair aircraft were coming to pick up water to fight a fire to the west in Ardeche. I took many photographs and a video. We had our evening meal here and then returned to Sarras.

I messed about in Sufiana for a month visiting friends and meeting people and was able to watch France beating Brazil, Spain and Portugal in the world cup.

10 July Moved Sufiana to St Vallier for easier provisioning for a trip South planning to arrive in the Med to see the fireworks on 14 July. I had not folded away the BBQ and it broke one of its legs as we were mooring

12 July 0635 motor on and away with Pierre, Françoise, Adrien and Willy. . Passed Ecluse Gervans the first lock and found that the cooling water flow in the exhaust was less than normal so we eased to the bank and I went overboard to pull weed off the water inlet. we also cleaned weeds from the water filter. When the engine was running again there was no water in the exhaust. we spent an hour and a half testing the flow with hand pumps and checking the impeller - still no flow - then we saw that the rubber O ring had fallen from the cap of the water filter so the engine was sucking air instead of water. Once the ring was in place all went well. We tied up above Ecluse la Bollene for the night at 2130

13 July 0630 into the lock and 0700 out. We stopped at St Etienne des Sorts to visit a friend of Pierre’s from St Uze. We anchored in the shade of a tree for lunch from 1200 till 1350. Ecluse Beaucaire the last lock on the Rhone was reached at 1610 and Ecluse St Gilles at 1930. Gilbert was waiting for us with melons and bottled water from his freezer. Unfortunately the lock was closed and would not open on the 14th. This forced us to change our plan. We tied up alongside a barge Then Avin carrying bauxite and chatted for a while with the attractive bateliere.

14 July 0820 till 1230 we motored down the Petit Rhone to St Marie de la Mer where we picked up Gilbert, filled with fuel and had lunch. After a siesta we motored west for an hour and anchored for the night. We also met a local who helped us to collect mussels and crabs which we consumed in the evening. We spent the weekend messing about near the coast. Also caught two sar which were marinaded in white wine and cooked on the BBQ.

16 July After lunch, siesta and a swim we returned to Port Guardian (St Marie de la Mer) to deposit Gilbert who had to work the next day. We paid 33 € for the night and filled containers with water - it had a bleachy taste so we bought bottled water for drinking. Port Guardian was a let down - expensive, no paper in the loos, hair and sand in the showers and bad tasting water - a place to avoid.

17 July Left St Marie de la Mer and anchored off the coast to the west of the mouth of the Petit Rhone after motoring for an hour. All went ashore for a swim and to collect more mussels. In the evening we let the wind waft us out to sea and anchored 1 km off.. Mid morning we let the sea breeze push us gently shorewards using the spinnaker pole as a mast and an awning as a square sail.

18 July Motored towards Grau du Roi and anchored just outside Port Camargue. We swam then spent the night at anchor.

19 July We entered the canal at Grau du Roi and waited till 1145 for the opening of the bridge then 5 km to Aigues Mortes where the night cost 19 € and the water tasted a bit better. We helped the French crew of a hire boat Connoisseur to tie up as it was their first moor.

20 July 0900 motored via the Super U (supermarket) eventually arriving at Palavas at 1230. We had lunch and the Connoisseur arrived. They wanted to go to the beach so we all climbed aboard Sufiana and motored 1 km to the last bridge which was too low to pass. The beach party Françoise, Adrien, Willy, Claudie, Marlene, Thomas, Stephane, Melina and Lucie went ashore and Pierre and I took Sufiana back to the pontoon. When the beach party were tired of the beach they phoned and we went to pick them up. When all were aboard we did a neat turn in the narrow channel using a stern line and the incoming current. We put the visitors back on their boat and followed them to Maguelonne where we moored. We finished a bottle of whisky together and worked our way down another.

21 July All went on the wee train to the beach except me as beaches do nothing for me. At about 1200 I saw two gorgeous women crossing the pontoon bridge. The one in white pants was stunning. Moments later they were aboard Sufiana Claudie and Marlene. After lunch and a siesta we motored to Frontignan and drank an aperitif on the Connoisseur.

22 July All aboard Sufiana and off to the sea. We took the new canal passing signs which said ‘no house boat’ and ‘no sport nautique’ we decided we were neither and anchored 1 km east of the harbour entrance near the beach and went for a swim.

24 July Met NW 2/3 turning SW 3 We left Frontignan and headed east past Frontignan Port and its beaches. After 5 miles the yellow buoys ended and we anchored 200m from the beach. We spent the night here and caught 3 mullet. In the morning (Françoise’s birthday) as a little swell had built up we motored back to the canal entrance and then to Maguelonne where we moored about a mile from the previous night’s anchorage.

26 July Motored back to Frontignan to meet Gilbert - then back to Maguelonne the next day. Here we moored on the south side of the canal for a change and Gilbert took the bike to collect his car from Frontignan. Then Avin passed heading for Frontignan. Met 26th SE 4/5 increasing 6/7 27th 6-8 decreasing 3-5 in the evening. Gilbert left to go back to work.

29 July Françoise and Bruno arrived for the long weekend which was spent swimming, eating and drinking. I went to the beach every morning, swam, showered, then returned to Sufiana. I also ran the motor to charge the batteries.

31 July While I was running the motor I noticed there was no cooling water emerging from the exhaust. The water pump impeller was damaged.

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1 August Bruno drove Pierre and I to Palavas where I was able to order two replacement impellers - to arrive the next day. On the phone Beta confirmed the number of the impeller and advised me that the carriage to France would cost more than a new impeller. Back at the boat I glued the impeller to its axle with Araldite and left it to set. Willy and Françoise went back to St Uze with Françoise and Bruno.

2 August I fitted the impeller and we set off for Palavas. After 30 min the pump stopped so I fitted an electric pump in a storage bin which Pierre filled with canal water using the bucket. We arrived and tied up at Palavas and waited for the phone call telling us that the impellers had arrived. The impellers were 35 € each and the delivery 20. 1545 all was fixed and we were away. We continued till 1915 stopping at Franquerais about 2 km from Ecluse St Gilles.

3 August Set off at 0900 and were out of the lock at 0925. We motored up the Petit Rhone till we reached the junction with the Rhone at 1140. We tied to a tree and had lunch and a siesta till 1400. The trip to the first lock Beaucaire took 2 hours and we were out of the lock at 1630. We tied up in Avignon at 2000 and slept. Next morning Pierre and Adrien decided to take the train to Tain l’Hermitage so we walked to the station to check times. We ate in a restaurant on the square in the evening.

5 August Loulou and Jean Pierre came down from Sarras and we went together to the Chateauneuf du Pape wine festival. Prices were high - the lowest we saw was 11 € a bottle. (some Cotes du Rhone at 30 €). They stayed in Sufiana for the night and returned on the Sunday.

8 August The mistral had been gusting for some days - but it had a pattern - calm in the morning then up to force 5 at about 1100 and down again in the evening. I set off at 0830 but there was a gas tanker ahead so I tied up to the waiting pontoon for 1 hr 15 min leaving the lock at 1120. At 1230 the wind was there so I decided to anchor opposite Rochmaure - no go - the thing kept dragging with the wind and current.  So I set off again and found the engine was overheating - weeds in the inlet. I slowed to 1500 rev and covered the ground at 5 km/hr. Eventually St Etienne des Sorts hove in sight. On the pontoon was Enomis (Simone +Mr Audinel). As they helped me moor I invited them for drinks and we finished a Talisker then tasted Knockando, Glen Grant and Glen Orchy (a malt blend at 9 € 95 from LIDL).Nice. The met was crap for the next day so I stayed on the pontoon and dined again on Enomis. In the local grocery I found Chateauneuf du Pape 2001 at 9.50 €. I bought 5 bottles leaving one for a lucky customer. In the morning I swam under the boat and cleared the weeds from the cooling water inlet.

10 August 0620 first light and away. There was a gas tanker passing as I left but he would be at the lock long before me. I was in the lock at 0835 and tied up in Viviers at 1205. I phoned Pierre and he decided to come with Adrien and Willy for the rest of the trip to Sarras. We left at 1810 and arrived at Ancone at 1930. In a flash of madness we tried to anchor south of Cruas by the left bank and ran aground. I had to leap overboard and push Sufiana off the shingle. I towed her like African Queen till we were in chest height water. Back to Ancone and moored in the traditional Sufiana Duc d’Albe system.

11 August An early start then an uneventful trip up the Rhone averaging 7 kph against the current. We arrived at St Vallier and tied up to the Duc d’Albe there to unload and eat a meal on Sufiana.

12 August 1730 I took Sufiana to the mooring on the Riviere d’Ay to meet Jean Paul, Anna Marie, Alexis and Pauline. We set off on a trip down the Rhone to celebrate 15 August. We stopped for the night at Tournon then slipped gently south to Valence where we had lunch with Loulou and Dede. After lunch we had a little cruise towards Beauchastel returning to Valence for the Sunday night.

14 August Returned to the Riviere d’Ay stopping at La Roche de Glun for lunch on the way.

Lazed about on the mooring at Sarras waiting for the right moment to head North.

28 August The time has come. Set off for Les Roches de Condrieu arriving about lunch time after stopping for lunch at the Halte Nautique at Chavanay and finding no facilities there and the gate on the end of the pontoon locked.

29 August I set off after lunch - a mistake as the current limited me to 5 km/hr. Eventually I arrived at Ecluse Pierre Benite and asked the lock keeper if I could stay on the pontoon for the night.

30 August 0730 through the last lock on the Rhone and past Lyon which was a bit dismal. I carried on till Villefranche and moored at the pontoon at Jassans Riottier on the other side of the river Saone.

31 August arriving near Macon I took the bypass - a new canal East of Macon which brings you close to the marina. I spent the night here.

1 September (White hares for the first of the month - In France as well as in Scotland it is unlucky to mention rabbits [and salmon] on a boat) I went on up to Tournus and stayed two nights. During this time the level of the river dropped by 1m and the current got less.

3 September With less current I was able to bypass Chalon sur Saone and enter the Canal du Centre which has confusing names along its length. I tried to stop near Leclerc but the banks were too overgrown to get ashore so I carried on to Fragnes where there was a new halte and the start of a cycle track along the canal.

4 September A short trip following a Swiss penichette Chataigne to Chagny - almost a canton of Switzerland. I chatted with Pamela from Glasgow and partner who has moored up behind.  I followed them through the locks the next morning to Saint Leger sur Dheune where we spent the next night.

6 September 19 locks on my own did not bother me much till I arrived at Montchanin to a real English welcome at the halte nautique so I turned back and moored on the other side of the canal by the VNF site.

7 September Stopped for lunch at Leclerc just at the start of Montceau les Mines. Never saw such a selection of single malts in a supermarket. I bought Laphroig, Glenfiddich, Glendeveron and Glen Grant. In the evening Ciry le Noble on the 7th was so exciting I cannot remember it at all.

8 September  Stopped at Palinges for the night the water was a bit shallow and I ran aground in the morning as I tried to leave. I jumped ashore and pushed Sufiana off stern first and all was well,

9 September  Paray le Monial was a nice stop by a narrow boat where I partook of light refreshment.

10 September I arrived at Digoin at mid-day and decided to stay the night. This was one of those places that charge a tax de sejour with the mooring fee.

11 September I decided to visit Dompierre (for the last time) and paid the standard 8€ for the privilege.

12 September Gannay was the same price. Here I ate in a restaurant for the first time since Avignon. Met two English couples in a penichette.

13 September It is not easy to turn into the basin at Decize as the actuator for the lock is at the far side of the river for boats coming the other way. A notice to this effect would have been helpful. I entered the Nivernais canal and stopped for 3 nights at Saint Leger des Vignes. Fuel and supermarkets were nearby - even a mooring by the Champion supermarket.

16 September Cercy la Tour was the next stop and very fine it was too with a baker nearby. As I was moored there an English couple arrived on a penichette and I helped them to moor.

17 September I followed the penichette through the locks - with two boats locking up was much easier. We stopped the night at Panneçot where we should have been charged 8 euros but a small notice indicated that the site was closed.

18 September we carried on to a stop just called Pont here I decided to turn back so in the morning I returned to Panneçot. After I had moored a blue penichette called Biggles appeared. It turned out to be John Best who I knew at Royal Findhorn Yacht Club in the late 70s. We tasted some single malts together.

20 September I followed Biggles into the first lock but did not go far enough ahead. When the lock emptied I found that the rudder skegs were grounded on the sill. We had to close the lock and run in some water till Sufiana was afloat. After that there were no problems till the lock at Cercy la Tour when a boat with a Polish crew pulled out in front of me and went into the lock with Biggles. I stopped there again but got pissed off with two British flagged boats both parked in the middle of the space available to them. Do they never think of others? I took off the red ensign and replaced it with the saltire. Then I went ashore and complained to a gang of pensioners sitting on a bench. I gave each one a can of beer. They were delighted. Vive l’entente cordiale.

21 September Back to Decize - or near it - I found under shelf baskets in LIDL. I fixed three below the drawers in the galley in waste space there. Now storage is much better - though you have to pull out a drawer to reach the stuff below.

Now started a gentle roll back down the canal to Fragnes where the welcome was fine.

29 September I left in the mist with 300m visibility and eventually reached Tournus where I stopped for the night.

30 September I went to Macon again and had lunch with Pamela and co.

1 October. White Hares. The longest day. I did not want to stop in Lyon - the  smaller the town you stop in the easier it is to find what you want. Eventually after 100 km in 11 hr 25 min I stopped at Givors after Ecluse Pierre Benite. Here the electricity was paid by tokens - which in your case you have not got. So I slipped off early in the morning for Les Roches de Condrieu 24 km away. 15 euro and I stayed 28 hr. While there Michel phoned and said he would come and crew for the last day. Also that the Riviere d’Ay was encumbered with a dredger and I could not get in there. Gilbert also called with the same news.

3 October The return - almost . It took 30 min to get tied up at the Duc d’Albe at St Vallier and the crocodiles kept bashing the hull during the night. The next day we went 2 km downstream and moored on a barge ramp which had never been used by barges.

I went into St Vallier to an internet point and booked my flights home. Easyjet were not flying from Grenoble till 16 Dec so I used Ryanair to Stansted and Prestwick.

8 October Bebert, Michel, Coryne and Henriette were crew to go South to Valence. We stopped at Tournon for lunch and had a fine day.

9 October I moved Sufiana to her winter berth and started a clean up. Now she is parked with empty water tanks and anti-freeze in the cooling system. All looks good.

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