Catalunya,  Part 2

1st to 10th March, 2000

The weather had been pretty kind to us since our return in January and we had seen virtually no rain and on most days we had clear skies.  On the evening of 1st March, however, we had the strangest cloud we had ever seen.  Occasionally one sees impressionist paintings with red skies and doubts their basis in reality, but on this occasion a red cloud, pictured left, moved over the camp at Tamarit and, for a few moments, the whole sky was red - an eerie experience.

We set off on the 2nd with the intention of following the coast road and finding a site near to Barcelona.  After Sitges, shown looking back below left, the coast road is cut into the mountains that reach down to the sea we had a spectacular, if somewhat slow, journey past some interesting tiny bays.  As usual, the stopping opportunities with the caravan in tow are severely limited and we were unable to get pictures of places like Gaudi Garraf, with its interesting architecture.

We were only able to find one  campsite to the south of Barcelona open, close to the airport, but did not like the area nor the low flying aircraft and decided to find one to the north.  We had been very much spoiled by the quiet beach-side camps we had found before and saw nothing to our tastes until we reached the Costa Brava.  The coast road north of Barcelona is heavily developed and the road and rail line hug the coast.  We had had a good day in Barcelona on a previous trip and decided to carry on. At Blanes we found a camp site, Camping S'Abanell, which is large and spread over three blocks at the eastern end of the resort,  conveniently placed for shops and the beach.  Further east along the beach are other camp sites, some that extend right down to the beach, but were not open.  There were in our camp a few Brits, including a couple that now live in Germany with grown up children that scarcely speak English.   

The campsite seemed less than organised and we were persuaded into a pitch which was heavily shaded and, as a result, a bit cold  and depressing in the morning.   After moving to a more open pitch, we decided to stay a while and biked into the town in search of an Internet Cafe.   At the tourist office we learnt that the library was the place to go.   After struggling to find it the computer failed to log in and we wasted a lot of time.   We were sent to shop in town but his computer was was broke.   However he told us of another Computer Games shop but he was closing as we arrived.  We had been told there was also access at the sports centre but the elderly Spanish gentleman at the reception could not be made or did not want to understand.   In the afternoon we decided to take on the Costa Brava following the coast road north but  before doing so returned to the sports centre as we were sure there was Internet access.   As the fellow in the reception was gone we explored and found the Internet which was free and worked well.

As we headed north, at first the road was reasonably gentle and we soon reached Lloret de Mar shown centre above.  This is a very developed tourist resort and, after looking at its beaches, we decided it was not for us.   As we left we were followed by the Guarda Civil which always has a steadying influence on ones driving and as the road became steep and winding we took it gently.    As we took a left hand bend a young Spaniard in a small red car came scorching round the corner in the opposite direction, tyres squealing and half way across the centre line.  We swerved, as did the Guarda Civil, who must have had an even closer shave.   Their blue light came on and they turned back after the mad driver who, at the least, would be in for a dressing down. 

Further along, Tossa de Mar, shown above right, was a far more inviting place.  Although fairly well developed, its buildings had more style.  After Tossa, the road becomes even more testing but continues to reveal fabulous views such as the one below left, looking north to Sant Feliu.

Eventually we reached Sant Feliu which has an interesting old church in its centre shown above centre and right.    We stocked up at the nearby supermarket and set off back to Blanes along the better inland roads, heading first towards Girona.

On the Saturday we explored Blanes, the chief distinguishing feature being the rocky outcrop shown below left, in the lea of which the fishing boats used to shelter before the port was built.  This day, it was being covered in fireworks for the evening display as part of the Carnival.  We eventually found the Internet shop, shown below centre and right, which was somewhat extreme in its decor, rather noisy and full of young people.  We checked our e-mail and moved on.

On Sunday afternoon we returned to the town, planning to check our mail again as we were waiting for one particular message.  The games shop was jammed with young men and, though we went back several times, never got on line.  We did, however, get caught up in the Carnival procession, which looped around the old town.   Unfortunately, we found ourselves on the wrong side of the march and had a long walk back to camp.  David had not brought his camcorder, so went back into town to snap the pictures of the Carnival, shown below.

On Tuesday, 7th, we left Blanes for what we had planned as our last stop in Spain at L'Escala near to the Greek and Roman ruins.  The camp was in a bay south of L'Escala called Cala Montgo, shown below left.  This was a quiet place, where we were able to take in a bit of sun-bathing later in the week.

As it was still early, we decided to take in the ruins straight away and set off along the coast, stopping to look at the beautiful bays, one of which is shown below centre, that grace L'Escala.

The ruins of Empúries were as interesting as the guide books led us to believe.   Below right is Asclepius, overlooking an area believed to be an ancient hospital.   The site contains Greek ruins, shown below left, of the original settlement close to the sea and protected by a remarkable wall,  part of which, shown below right, has survived the wind and the sea for two millennia.

Further back from the sea is the remains of the Roman settlement.  The Forum is shown centre right and its remarkable wall and gate, far right.  The upper half of the wall, amazingly, is Roman concrete which is remarkably durable.   We were also surprised that the good luck symbol carved on the stonework to the right of the gate had also survived the millennia.

We returned to camp via the library in Blanes where we had learnt they had access to the Internet Close to the ruins, the following morning, we explored the tiny walled mediaeval town of Sant Marti d'Empúries, which was originally a rocky outcrop separated by an isthmus on which the first settlers made their home.

In the afternoon we went to the edge of Roses by way of Sant Pere Pescador and Castelló.  Roses sits in a sweeping sandy bay, part of which is shown right centre, and has an interesting ruined fort, shown far right.

Surprisingly, entrance to the ruins is free and inside there are Greek and Roman excavations and  various walls leading up to the last huge fortifications that were eventually destroyed by the French in 1814.  We left Roses to head over the mountain to Selva.  We wanted to see this place because it is where David's parents took their first package tour.  They flew by Dakota (the aeroplane) to Toulouse and then by bus to the resort.  Selva, shown below left, is still largely unspoilt because of its inaccessibility.  David's father had apparently gone on an excursion to Sant Pere de Rodes and we decided to have a look ourselves.  A tiny road winds up very steeply and seemingly without end, towards the ruined monastery, shown below centre, which is supposed to be on or close to the site where important Christian relics, including the head of St. Peter, were said to be buried for safe keeping. 

A little further on, we found an even older relic.  The dolman, shown below right, is thought to be 4000 years old.   By now it was late and we began the descent, made difficult by driving into the setting sun. 

The morning of the 9th was spent mostly on the beach at Cala Montgo and in the afternoon our target was to explore up to the French border.  We stopped in Figueres and admired its main square, shown right.

Figueres is best known for the works of Dalì, who was born and died there.   With mixed feelings, we decided to visit the Dalì Museum, shown below left, with its eccentric exhibits such as the Cadillac, shown below centre, and the trademark 'floppy clocks', shown below right.

We left Figueres and headed towards the coast road for Portbou.  We had, on a previous trip, looked down on Portbou from just over the French border, and we felt we should complete our experience of the coast road.  The road is very narrow, winding and tedious and at Colera we decided that the last few kilometres to Portbou would not add much more to our experience of the coastal road to France.

On Friday the 10th, we broke camp and headed over the border by the more gentle N11.  The map, right, shows our route round the coast.   Looking back, it is hard to believe we have only been in Spain for less than six months.  The trip has definitely opened our eyes to the 'real' Spain and we understand a lot more of the country and its people.  Though there are still things we can be critical of, we are a lot better disposed to the place than when we started out.

Last updated:  18/03/01