The Southwest of France, Part 1

27th September, 1999

The Dordogne  had been a remarkable experience, but we had been tested by the rain again so we had decided to move south, stopping only for a brief look at Bordeaux.   We had been past before but not stopped.     The site we chose, the Bel-Air, was to the east, just outside the village of Lorient, next to a vineyard.     The site is owned by an Swiss and his wife.  He had previously been a Patent  Agent but had decided to change his lifestyle.    He was obviously technically minded and it was the first site we had found with its own internet access facility (http://www.camping-bel-air.com)  However we had more pressing business and set of for the centre of Bordeaux.       

We had what we thought was a minor motor problem.   As we had approached Sarlat we had encountered some fairly serious traffic calming (hands up everyone that knows someone whose car or worse has been damaged by this insanity of the late 20th century!)  We crept over it but it still deranged a CV joint which thereafter clattered.    Having had the same problem on the two predecessors to our current tow car we thought that a bit of grease would solve the problem as it had before.   The clatter came and went as we knew it would.     The dealer in Sarlat thought he might be able to look at it in a week or so.    We felt sure a big dealer in Bordeaux would be more obliging so we set of immediately to see them.   We found them in time for the next cloudburst which we sat out in the car.   They also offered an appointment a week ahead but when pressed suggested we visited another branch of their company that offered "Rapid Service" but was on the far side of  Bordeaux.    After a lot of argument and "no guarantees", this branch reluctantly agreed to put some grease in the next afternoon.

28th September, 1999

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As we had to return to the garage, we decided to spend the morning in Bordeaux and, having circuited for half an hour without finding a parking space, went into an underground car park and surfaced on foot by the theatre, left, which has an 

impressive foyer which we (rather cheekily) videoed.   We wandered around the centre of Bordeaux and found the cathedral with its ornate main door archway and its mediaeval-looking keyhole (below left and centre).   We also took in its tall monument, which commemorates the locals that fell in the many French wars.

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We then returned to have our car's CV joint greased.   By way of a test, we then drove out to the coast to watch the waves breaking in what is a favourite area for surfers.   The resort of Lacanau -Ocean was half deserted - a bit like Blackpool out of season.   We then drove down to Arés on the northern edge of the Bassin d'Arcachon.   By this time, it was getting late and we decided not to pursue our original goal of visiting the Dune du Pilat, which was to the south of the Bassin but return to camp.

29th September, 1999

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No visit to Bordeaux would be complete without seeing some of the vineyards for which the area is so famous.   We headed for St. Emilion and, after a brief stop in the town itself, which was teaming with tourists, happened upon the grape picking scene, above left.   We continued on our way to Parsac,  which was deserted, but its 11th century simple church above middle and right was open.    We have found more than once that the crowded tourist traps do not contain the real jewels and we marvel at the fact that such a historic treasure as this old church should be ignored and unprotected.  

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Our last stop in the area was at Castillon la Bataille.  We had driven through the town on our way to Bordeaux, but now spent a little more time looking at its fine church and town hall and the magnificent view of the Dordogne.   The town really marks the end of the English involvement in France, since it was here that the French  comprehensively beat us in 1453.   Having caught out the French with our longbows at Azincourt, it was their turn to catch us out with their modernised artillery.  

We returned to camp, checked our e-mail and, believing our car to be well and truly fixed, offered to meet our Asturian friend from her flight into Bilbao a week later.     Ana, who is from Gijon,  is married to college friend of David's and was going back there in October for a holiday, had promised to show us Asturia.

 

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Last updated:  18/03/01