Vendee

17th September, 1999

By Friday we had had enough of Nantes, trams and bike lanes but we had still not received the post we  were waiting for, so we made the long trek to the supermarket and stocked up.   The post arrived while we were shopping and, at 11:15, we decided to move on.   We are supposed to leave the site by noon, but the best we could do was 12:30.  

First we headed south through the Vendée, which was a Royalist stronghold during the revolution.    During our travels we are continually reminded of man's inhumanity to man, but here we  were astonished to realise that 80,000 Royalists were slaughtered in one day in 1793 as they attempted to cross the River Loire at St-Florent-le-Veil.

We made for the coast at Bourgneuf-en-Retz then followed it.   We made a brief stop at Bretignolles-s-Mer where our "twinning" friend has a holiday home.   As he was still on his holidays we left a a brief note and moved on.   Because we had set out later than usual, we decided on a comparatively short drive and arrived at La Rochelle quite late in the day.  The site was chosen for its proximity to the town and facilities, but without considering that these benefits may be set against some traffic noise and limits on facilities within the camp.   A bigger problem however was the weather, which had become much less camper friendly.

18th September, 1999

In between showers we revisited the town.    We had made a brief stop on our first caravanning trip some years ago.    Some things don't change.   We drove round and round the car parks near the old port before giving up and moving a bit further out of town then walking back in.

La Rochelle had a chequered history, finishing up on the losing side in a few too many wars.    Its remarkable natural harbour turned out to be too easily blocked by a barrage on one occasion, preventing relief of siege from the sea.      The old harbour, above left,  is a major tourist attraction, surrounded by restaurants such as that above right with nautical brass windows.    While we were there the town hall was putting on displays in various parts, promoting the seafaring and other feats of seven of its favourite sons. 

The town was also getting ready for a water spectacle, including trick skiing and something for which big fans were required.

We have learnt to put up with a bit of poor weather and noisy roads and messy birds and some what tatty facilities, but not all at the same time so after wandering round we decided it was time to move on.    We managed to find an Internet Shop, above right, and after checking Hotmail returned to camp to pack up.     The messy birds deserve special mention.    Living in the country as we used to, we are used to a bit of nature.   At this camp we seemed to have been targeted by half the birds in La Rochelle and, as well as making an awful mess on our awning from the trees above, they found our roof rack an ideal perch for the night leaving their customary mark.    After some hours of cleaning, we took down and packed the awning and covered the bikes and the roof rack with polythene.

19th September, 1999

It poured again during the night and we got up early on the Sunday, determined to put many miles between us and the camp!    We had already worked out the quickest way out the previous night and by lunch we were past Cognac, heading for the Dordogne.   We could not resist stopping to buy some Pinot de Charrentes to which we have become slightly addicted.

We try to ignore ring roads where we think we can get away with it.     In Saintes we were well rewarded with a splendid Roman arch - which had formed the entrance and exit of the town, until circumstances forced its removal to a place of safety - and peaceful views across the river towards the Cathedral.    Saintes is another town we must revisit at some future time.

Last updated:  18/03/01