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Woohoo! If everything has gone to plan, you should now have the propshaft out, the diff off and the suspension, brakes and driveshafts in pieces around you... Assembly is (roughly speaking) a case of following the previous destructions (sic) in reverse. Broadly speaking we are going to: i) Replace the new propshaft
It is reasonably straightforward, but there are a couple of important notes: a) When reinserting the propshaft into the gearbox and the driveshafts into the diff, take care not to damage the seals by rough handling. There is no magic to this - just take care and don't be violent. b) It's easiest to raise the diff using two people and a jack (one person under the car providing lateral support and inserting the bolts etc.) Take care to replace the shims exactly as they were removed. Replace the long top-bolt first to take the weight of the diff. Fill the diff before you put weight back onto the suspension (you won't be able to get at the fill plug otherwise...) c) The bolts that hold the diff and prop flanges together are regarded as single-use items (they are coated in a thread-lock substance). Throw the old ones away and get a new set (they cost about £2.50 per set). d) The flange bolt pattern is rectangular rather than square - so if you find after fitting a couple of the bolts that the other two won't engage in the diff flange, then you've probably got the diff and prop a quarter turn out of phase. Undo the bolts again, rotate the prop one quarter turn and try again... e) The four diff/prop bolts should be torqued to 42 lbft (58 Nm). This can only really be achieved using the torque wrench with an extension bar running parallel to the propshaft - there is not enough space to get the torque wrench head onto the bolts directly. f) You will find that you can torque three of the four bolts without an issue - but the fourth is obstructed by the UJ grease nipple. Nothing can really be done except to tighten this one manually by hand... g) Remember to torque the A-frame pivots only after the weight of the car is on the suspension (you don't need to put the wheels back on... just jack from the rear A-frame pivot as you normally would...) The torque is a high 60 lbft (82 Nm). You may need deep sockets to engage the nut-end of the assemblies. h) Most of the other useful torques are just 35 lbft (48 Nm) - i.e. De Dion ears, brake calipers etc. The rear ARB mount is a lowly 5lbft (7Nm) and should be tightened by hand). That's pretty much it. Check for left-over washers etc. Make sure you've remembered to replace the rear brake pads (i.e. put them back - although now would be a good time to put new ones in if they need it...) Off you go. Class dismissed... |
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