Left is the early budget model

 known as the Formichino E.

The frame was made in pressed

steel unlike the more expensive

model shown right was made

from die cast alloy.

The basic design of the scooter remained

the same throughout its existence.

Shown here are two Bold'or scooters being put

through their paces, one at  Crystal Palace the other is probably at Montlhery where the Bold'or was

successful three times,

winning the 24 hour race.

This scooter was probably designed to compete with the likes of Vespa and

Lambretta but it could not get a foothold

in the lucrative scooter market.  It had a

98cc 4 stroke V twin cylinder engine.

Unfortunately its production was short

lived.

To the right we have a Bol d'or in

full racing trim,  note the removal of

the front headlamp section and the

cut away rear section,  the front

mudguard has also been removed.

An additional long range fuel tank

was added between the seat and

front casting.

(Picture by JP Praderes)

The above picture is of the very early Formichino. This was the introduction  to the scooter we know today. As you can see the rear section is in one piece with an integral toolbox, the front casting is also without the headlamp housing retainer

webs. (Picture by JP  Praderes)

The Bol d'or can easily be 

identified by the twin 18mm Dellorto carburettors fitted directly to the inlet ports.

The cooling fins on the Formichino cylinder heads are noticeably narrower than the Tipo Sport version .

This picture shows the difference in the well area of the Formichino head (left) and the Tipo Sport head. If you look close enough you will notice the depth of the well of the Tipo head (right) is shallower,  this increases the compression ratio giving more power.

The Bol d'or head is the same as the Tipo but with more infill to create the extra compression needed. 

CARBURETTOR

Main Jet -----------------45-60

Atomiser-----------------262

Needle-------------------C7

Notch Position----------Middle

Float Weight-------------7.5gr

Needle length -----------

Throttle Slide-------------55

Idle Jet-------------------45

TO RICHEN MIXTURE

Screw adjuster clockwise (inwards)

TO WEAKEN MIXTURE

Screw adjuster anti-clockwise

(outwards)

IGNITION TIMING

From mark (A to Mark O)

on flywheel---------------30mm

A= Advance (points just open)

O= Points fully Open at TDC

TO ADVANCE TIMING

Rotate back plate Clockwise

TO RETARD TIMING

Rotate back plate Anti-Clockwise

Spark Plug Gap------20-22 thou

----------------------0.5-0.56mm

Spark Plug type---NGK B7ES

                         Champion  N4

Points Gap-------------12 thou

------------------------0.32 mm

Crank case Oil Capacity 2 ½ pts

Oil Type----------------SAE30

Petrol/Oil mix standard oil 20:1

Synthetic----------------25 to 40:1

TYRE PRESSURES

Front----------------------18Lbs

Rear-----------------------22Lbs

With Pillion

Front----------------------22Lbs

Rear-----------------------28Lbs

CHAIN SIZE:  1/2" X 3/16"

                         98 Links

Main Jet---------------100

Atomiser---------------265

Needle------------------E1

Notch Position---------Middle

Float Weight-----------6.5gr

Needle length ----------62mm

Throttle Slide-----------70

Idle Jet-----------------45

AS FORMI

AS FORMI

From Mark (A to O) ----25mm

A= Advance (points just open)

O= Points Fully Open at TDC

All below as Formichino

Spark plug type---NGK B8ES

The engine has been washed down and clamped in a vise.

Remove carbs

Undue the cylinder head nuts and remove

the cylinder heads

Remove the timing cover bolts,  remove the flywheel by removing the castle nut by using the special tools

 Remove the   flywheel from the crankshaft using a puller

Now simply remove 

the cylinders being careful not to damage the pistons.

Now remove the gasket if it is in good condition it can be re-used. be sure to place it the right way round.

Timing side.

Mark the position of the mounting plate with a punch before removing the the plate.

The timing plate is held on by three screws and can now be removed.

Now remove the final drive sprocket,  it must be locked before releasing the nut. Use special tool if available.

Remove the sprocket from the splines.  Check the condition of the splines.

Remove the nine slotted screws holding on the round covers on the timing side of the crankcase halves.

These must be removed at this point.

Remove the first round cover.  This is for the main bearing and therefore must be tight on re-assembly to preserve crankcase compression.

The second cover is for the gearbox main shaft bearing.  Note that each of these covers has its own gasket which must be in good condition.

The third one covers the drive shaft bearing. This is a double row bearing to enable it to take the enormous strain upon it.

IMPORTANT.

Select Top gear before removing primary drive cover and place a tray

underneath the engine to catch oil.  Re-new this gasket.

On re-assembly ensure that all teeth on the shaft are to right of quadrant stop,  and also that the rear pedal on the outside is fully depressed.

The small gear with which the quadrant meshes is held by one circlip.  remove the clip with special pliers. 

Then remove the gear and undue the two upper bolts of the three which were masked by it.  This is essential before the crankcase can be split.

Invert engine and remove ten allen screws holding the crankcase halves.

There are 4 long,  3 medium,  1 short and 2 very short. Note positions

Note also that there is a magnetic drain plug fitted to the gearbox.

Clean it regularly.  Re-invert the engine and tap gently to release top section.

Next,  remove the crankshaft,  it may need prising out but should not need too much effort.

Now take out the gearbox drive shaft,  note the washer behind the left hand bearing.  This is to prevent the shaft moving along.

Finally the main shaft can be lifted out.  This too has a washer.

If there has been any transmission whine,  check teeth of primary drive.

Don't forget to replace the strip shown above,  this seals the gearbox oil from the crankcase.

On re-assemble turn the gear selector shaft full clockwise  (top gear)

When you have finished all that work and you re-assemble the engine it should look something like this (above) if it doesn't just do it all again until it does.

Moto Rumi Jumping First Gear.  (The factory never sent them out like this)

Recently,  at Beaulieu,  I engaged a fair number of Rumi owners in conversation about first gear jumping gearboxes and I was

staggered how widespread the problem is.  Two longstanding Rumi owners provided the most powerful clues to the problem's

solution.  Not the solution you understand but a key to it.  Most of the owners past and present,  having the problem,  inherited

it when they bought their machines secondhand.  However,  these two owners had bought their Rumis new.  Both remember

breaking kick start return springs and taking their machines to two different dealers for replacement.  I'm talking about the late

fifties here.  From the date of the replacement of springs,  their gearboxes jumped out of first gear.  I recalled a statement made by a renowned Laverda specialist who once told me that most of the engine damage he encountered in his customer's

machines had been caused by dealers and not the owners.

So,  as no internal gearbox changes would have been made to effect the replacement of springs,  the only likely variance

would be in the positioning of the external gear selection mechanism.

The next clue was provided by a casual remark by a 'Villiers' friend of mine,  "In the factory,  that end cover would be loaded top down and not from the side".  "but if you do that,  the selector quadrant will fall out"  says I.  Exactly........Why has the

quadrant got that expensively and accurately placed hole in it,  which you can't see if you assemble it with the side cover?

The answer is,  the quadrant is assembled,  with the engine on its side,  on top of the selector drum with the 'between the teeth mark' on the idler wheel positioned on the most prominent tooth appearing in that little hole.  (see drawing above).

Now all this is OK,  providing that the other mark on the idler wheel is aligned with the corresponding mark on the end of the selector drum.  Simple ain't it?

So without any three handed spider monkeying in holding foot levers in top gear position,  you just lower the end cover on to the crankcase making sure you locate the long quadrant shaft into the side cover as you do it.  You will probably have to wobble the foot lever a little to engage the selector dogs with the quadrant.

The end of your gear jumping is upon you!  This is how it was done in the factory.  So far, three gear jumping machines have now benefited from this process. 

In the last fifty years or so,  none of these assembly markings were understood nor investigated by the dealers or by anyone else that I have been able to find.  Various bodges have been perpetrated by them and others to overcome the limitations of the 'select top gear and hold the foot lever in top method.  Some are technically quite good,  shimming being one but others involved filing elongated slots in the bronze selector drum bearing to gain adjustment to a possibly correct positioning.

It is entirely possible,  that gearboxes modified in this way will have to be  "blue printed"  (returned to original state) back to standard to to benefit from the correct assembly method.  So establishing the original non-adjustable setting of the idler gear height is probably important.

Just an aside,  I have noticed that quite often the double row ball bearing supporting the output shaft is not butted up against

the spacer between it and the gear pinion,  this gives too much first gear float,  15 thousands of an inch is more than enough.

I hope that this information  helps those of you suffering from the 'inflicted' blues of the Moto Rumi gearbox and that a lot less of you will find yourselves embarrassingly pushing your Rumi up steepish hills,  I've been there!!!

RUMI MAINTENANCE