Monday 05th June 2000 - Day Three, Perranporth to Porthtowan Prev Next

I had another good nights sleep and after it got light continued to doze for a while. Eventually a call of nature got the better of me and I had to get up. Breakfast was pasta and for a change done in a tomato sauce, and while it cooked I packed everything into my rucksack.

As I walked back through Perranporth I hadn't a clue what the time was as shopkeepers pulled boxes of footballs and beach mats out in front of their shops. I had decided to stock up on food at St.Agnes rather than load up to begin with and then have to carry it. I picked up the path in front of the beach and walked up the pavement of the steep hill on the south west side of Perranporth until the path peeled off to the right. The coast path is not particularly well signposted around these parts, something which is a general comment since Newquay, and I had to make some best guess decisions as to where to go.

Just off the road is a mass of rock that can be walked onto by the thinnest of bridges, and at the base is a door and window as though someone has carved a house in there. Steps lead down from the path to the door. A little futher on as the path leaves Perranport, it is marked up and to the left of the youth hostel. The evidence of Cornwall's mining past is very apparent with the scars of industrial working and many old mine shafts. These have been mostly fenced off and have now been fitted with conical steel 'hats' to make them safe but still allow access for bats.

At Cligga Head some of the rock outcrops showed a large crystaline structure of hexagons packed together and the path goes between these as it faithfully follows the coast. A little further on was an airport. Here was evidence of bunkers and coastal defences at the periphery. The path wound its way between them. The early sun had given way to low cloud that just clipped the hill tops. Trevaunance Cove came into view but before it was a deep descent into Blue Hills, then over another steep hill. At the bottom the path went onto the road then left it again at a wicked hairpin bend and rise on the road. I saw the postman in his van roar up the hill, throttle wide open and negotiate with it with skill; it's probably the highpoint of his day. The gravel road up the hill was barred by a metal gate with '1901 The Motor Cycling Club 1993' scrolled into the top of the metalwork and at the top a bench named with the same organisation. Down the far side of the hill several more wire cone hats topped old mine workings, and several could be seen over the surrounding land. This was not a place to go leaping about in the undergrowth.

Down in Trevaunance Cove there was very little in the way of supply stores unless you wanted a beach towel, beach wear, postcards, ice creams, etc. and I wasn't going to detour off into St.Agnes for food so I just carried on. The way out was marked by much evidence of mine working into the hill sides. Once clear of civilisation the path reverted to its more wild state and was very easy walking. Presently the coastguard lookout at St.Agnes Head came into view although it looked deserted. More tin mine engine houses came into view and I stopped to chat to an elderly couple along the top. They were staying in Porthtowan and walking out from there.

I passed the engine house that seems to appear in many 'typical' Cornwall photographs, although Cornwall has moved on and to me 'typical Cornwall' is not closed down mining but a very active if seasonal tourist and surfing industry - at least around the coast. That could be a very narrow minded view though because I have never ventured inland.

Over the next hill I could see Porthtowan where I intended to stop for the night, but the weather was warm, it wasn't late and I felt tired with a bit of a headache so I laid down on the grass at the cliff top and let the world go by for an hour or so. Now the sun had come out and shone in a brilliant blue sky. This is when walking is really enjoyable and it all seems worth while.

The path continued easy walking then down the hill into Porthtowan. At the beach cafe a very large man served me with a very large portion of the best tasting chips I had eaten in a long time. Oddly, the coast path here doesn't follow the beach but goes inland on the road, round the sharp bend and down the other road. It gave me the perfect opportunity to stock up on food at the Londis store. As usual I had to shuffle carefully around the shop to avoid felling stacks of tins and knocking bread off the shelves.

Porthtowan was the place that I wanted to stop for the day, but before I stopped I wanted to get up and over the hill going out. There is a campsite up from the beach but I would get the hill out of the way and then work back on the road. I can't abide starting the day with a monster hill to climb, I prefer to start gently. Once again it wasn't clear which route the path took at the top of the hill and I had to check the map. I saw a old man walking towards me on a suicidal cliff hugging path, but the real path was a bit further inland along a track. By now it was hot and I changed into my shorts. I reached the end of the track and briefly considered going for the next campsite. I could see Gull Rock but it was a long way so I back tracked down an adjacent path and went towards the campsite marked on the map. Gull Rock would wait for tomorrow.

An elderly gentleman pointed me in the right direction and I arrived without problem at Rose Hill Touring Park. The cost was £7.00 for the night (normally £8.40 for this time of season with car). The price was a bit high but the site is very pleasant with glide in tent pegs, pitches made level on the gentle slope of the hill and a spotless toilet and shower block. I pitched the tent in spot 13 to catch the evening sun and wrote my log whilst downing some shandied Stella Artois. Finally I remembered to buy some batteries for my radio. In some recompence for the higher charge the showers were included although it was 20p for the hairdryer. Still, hairdryers are for girls. And they did sell cold beer.

Next page, Day four, 06th June 00, Porthtowan, Hayle, St.Ives, Trevalgan Farm.

Previous page, Day two, 04th June 00, Crantock to Perranporth.

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