Thursday 08th June 2000 - Day six, Trevalgan Farm, Pendeen Watch, Botallack Prev Next

Don't let anyone tell you that walking from St.Ives to Pendeen is easy - it's not.

The day began gently enough, in fact the torpor from yesterday still appeared to be with me. Breakfast was baked beans and a couple of rolls for a change. I spent the usual interminable age getting ready to go, mainly because everything was strewn all over the tent after a day off.

I let a sparrow out of the washroom and then when finally ready set off for the coast path; this time following the signs was easier. As I reached the path another walker appeared over the hill from St.Ives. I kept up a good pace to warm myself up until I got to the triangulation pillar, then took the cagoule off. Although it had rained in the night the weather seemed quite bright. The other walker passed me and we commented on how good the weather was given that the forecast had been for rain.

The path to Zennor starts with small rocks littering the path and occasionally forming stepping stones for the many streams that seem to cross the path making for the sea. Carefully I picked my way along keeping my eyes on the path all the time for the next footfall. Then it got tougher.

The coast changed to granite with large outcrops making for good scenery but also meaning that for a lot of the time I had to hop from rock to rock and even climb over them, all this and a 40lb back pack. My progress got slower and slower as the path climbed and fell. It took me an hour and a half to cover the two miles as the crow flies between the triangulation pillars.

At Zennor Head I could see the Pendeen Watch lighthouse through the dip in Gurnard's Head, but distances at sea can be deceptive and together with the winding and undulation in the path I knew it was going to be a long time before I got there. After Zennor Head the rocks were not so big but still formed much of the path. A little further on and across another valley was a thoughtfully placed bench dedicated to Denys Val Baker (1917 - 1984) Author-Editor-Seafarer. Whoever he was, I was grateful for a place to sit and take a five minute break.

At Trereen Dinas the Pendeen Watch lighthouse looked closer but it was still three miles away as the crow flies and it was much further to walk. I came across a disused mine engine house and down a path at this point was Cove Cottage that offers Bed and Breakfast. It was the only establishment on this whole stretch to do so. Just here the walking was easy but shortly after it became difficult to tell exactly where the path went, probably because not many come out this far. The path could have used a few more posts to show the way. I stopped at the top of a rise to have a tin of rice pudding for my lunch. All the up and down was thirsty work and I was using up my water supply. It was just as well that I had put three litres in this day.

Now the vegetation grew more lavishly and the path was relatively easy to walk except for one granite outcrop where I had to climb around the edge facing some rocks. I marched along on flat level ground outside the walls to farmland and over the brow of the next hill came Pendeen Watch. Between Pendeen Watch and where I stood was a valley with a stream at the bottom and there was no alternative to going all the way down and up, then following the track to the lighthouse. As I got onto the track the sky darkened and the sun that had been with me on and off all day disappeared behind low cloud. By now I was getting tired as I trudged up the track so I stopped on a bench just through the car park to finish my biscuits and second litre of water by the lighthouse.

Over the next part of the coast line there were significant mine workings, but these are now disused. Here was a mixture of some of the traditional old mines and chimneys, but mostly of newer buildings and workings associated with mining. I continued through the disused open and quiet landscape which was eerie. All around were disused bits of buildings, pits and spoil heaps. Further on a couple of old 'typcial Cornwall' tin mine buildings were being renovated. Here the path went onto a road - but I had to check the map first because a likely path went closer to the sea.

By now the sun had come out again so I applied more suncream and smelled like a coconut once more. I was nearing Botallack where I wanted to stay for the night and after a bit more careful map reading I found a track next to a cow field. This took me straight to the camp site past some houses and rusted out cars that looked part of a long forgotten project.

The lady at Trevalyor Camp Site greeted me warmly and chatted as I worked out what to buy in the way of provisions in her well stocked shop. It was £4-00 for the night. I set up the tent and then went for a shower. Hot showers were 20p, and as I didn't have a 20p piece I had a cold one instead. Dinner was Happy Shopper chicken rice with steak and dumplings from a tin. I needed it. I made a couple of 'phone calls, wrote some log and got into several layers of clothing because I was getting colder. In my sleeping bag I fell asleep and woke up after it had got dark. I caught the weather forcast on the radio eventually which said thunderstorms moving up into the West Country and would be with us by morning. Just my luck, I wanted to make a good start to get home and I would be pinned down by lightning. No way am I striding over high headland with thunder and lightning about.

Next page, Day seven, 09th June 00, Botallack, Lands End, Plymouth, Newbury.

Previous page, Day five, 07th June 00, Trevalgan Farm rest day.

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