Saturday 9th June 2001 - Day One, Newbury, Penzance, Land's End, Porthcurno, Gribba Head Next

I picked up the path again at Lands End for the next stage of my walk. It had been a long journey down starting at 09:15 from Newbury, but it had been a day of wildlife. Amongst other things I saw deer, Canada geese, lots of herons and a badger. Later in the evening I was to see a fox cub.

I took the train to Penzance, changing at Exeter, then the 10b bus from Penzance to Lands End. This time the bus didn't go through such a tourtuous route as my return last time, although it still had to perform a tight turn at Sennen. As we approached Lands End and passed the First & Last Filling Station, the First & Last Post Office, the First & Last Stores and Inn, then we arrived. I wasted no time and got on with the walking making sure that I picked up at the first and last signpost, and continued.

Around Lands End the granite is very worn but still creates some majestic scenery. Near to the complex there are many paths so I stuck to the one nearest to the sea. A few people had walked to the first point and were basking in the sun. After here were places where the path followed the edge quite closely.

The walking was reasonably easy with a few reasonable descents and ascents along the coast, however I could feel that I had a fully laden pack including food and hadn't been walking for a while. Here and there were caves in the hillside. Presently the coast guard lookout came into view. I stopped to have a pastie, made in Cornwall, transported to and bought in Newbury, then returned to Cornwall and consumed.

The path to the coastguard lookout isn't the most obvious where it leaves the main path to go down and up the hillside and could be missed. On the other side it descends down steps into Porthgwarra, which I have to say has some very well maintained toilets. There is a small beach at Porthgwarra and one method of access is through a rather picturesque cave like archway.

The climb out is a very narrow winding path that goes between and behind the houses. I always like these little bits, to me they have a bit of an adventurous feeling about them.

The path continues to undulate and then almost by surprise is a sign to the Minack Theatre. This is an open air theatre cut into the rock. A sign warns that the descent is difficult and should not be attempted by children and elderly persons. It was a bit tricky attempting the steep steps with a fully loaded back pack and twinges of vertigo flashed through me. At one point a wrong footfall would have meant over the edge, next stop the sea. I sat down and shuffled round this one staying as close to the inside rock as physically possible.

At the bottom is a beach then a climb out. As I climbed the other side I came across a bench and stopped for a rest. Along the top the walking became very easy again, although I had to stop on two occasions to check the map because the path wasn't clear. The map wasn't clear either but I forked left both times and was correct.

By now I was getting tired and really looking for somewhere to stop but there wasn't anywhere suitable. Either the hedges were too close, or there was gorse on each side. I had come across a couple of disused fields just after Porthcurno beach but it was too early and I kept going.

Suddenly I came across some areas that were mainly gorse but had some open area including a made to measure spot next to the path. There was still about 1.5 hours to sundown but by the time I had cooked something and written my log it would probably be time. I had a meal of pasta in mushroom sauce and a couple of slices of bread.

It was getting late and the sun low, but still a couple out walking came past me. It amazes me how late some people go on the path. I was getting cold despite adding a sweatshirt and cagoule back on.Eventually the sun went down and the tent went up. As the light faded I could here birds singing and the distand sound of cows mooing. I was out in the countryside again.

Next Page Day two, 10th June 01, Porthcurno to Marizon.

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