Sunday 1st June 2003 - Day two, Par to Polperro Prev Next

When I finally woke it wasn't as bright as I thought it should be. In fact it was quite grey. I eventually got up for a shower that I was too tired to have last night, had oxtail soup and pasta, then packed up the tent and recovered my deposit for the facilities key. By about 8:40 I was back on the path which ran next to the road and off. I ached a bit here and there, but not too bad.

Just under the bridge the path veered off into a gentle climb that turned right into the familiar dirt track just outside fields maked by fences, in this case a field of horses. One had it's mane clipped so it stuck up like a moheican. A brief dip into Polkerris, a can of coke, then a climb up through woods that smelled strongly of wild garlic and I was back onto the high headland again. By now the sun had come up enough to take my sweatshirt off and apply suncream. A loud bark made me jump as a chap with a couple of alsations walked past me on the slightly higher field behind me.

Some way further round I came across Gribben Day Beacon, a structure built to identify that part of the coast and now owned by the national trust. Written on it was:

'For the safety of commerce and the preservation of marieners this beacon was erected in the year of our Lord 1832 by the Corporation of Trinity House of Deptford Strond. The most noble John Jefferys Prall Maquis Campden KG Master Capt John Woolmore KCH Deputy Master.'

Down the hill came the tricky part. Some bits of the coast path are better signposted better than others, this was one of the not so well signposted bits. Past a house with a huge lake, the outflow of which you use brieze block stepping stones to cross the path splits, the one to the right climbs through woods back onto the familiar path. I don't usually get it wrong but I chose left. I must have wasted half an hour by the time I knew that I was wrong and returned, I hate that. This time I took the right hand path and continued to Fowey.

Signs are non existant as you go into Fowey, just remember to double back as you go into the woods and don't dive into Fowey too soon. On the proper turn to Fowey which is a double back the coast path joins the Saint's Way again. The walk into central Fowey is on a road and after a while a sign points to the ferry, but I continued into town to buy lunch and dinner. A balti pastie and port & apple pastie fitted the bill with a couple of cans of coke. I then returned to the ferry and ate the balti pastie while I waited.

I didn't have long to wait, in fact I hadn't quite finished the pastie before the ferry arrived. It was 80p to cross.

At Polovan I went to the left, then up the road and right up another narrow road which was signed coast path. It was good as far as it went until I missed one and had to double back a bit before it obviously continued. If I have one comment about this stretch it is that there aren't enough signs at critical points.

Towns are almost always tricky to navigate and I often get lost. Once established through it's usually plain sailing until the next one.

More missing signage didn't help but I went around Pencarrow Head and the obvious path is the correct one. Pencarrow Head marks the start of a piece of path that falls and rises a lot. I had to resort to climbs of about 30 steps, pause to recover, then climb another 30 which made for very slow progress. Gorse bushes abounded and at times the path was right on the edge where the land fell away towards the sea, the vegetation giving comfort that there was something there. I put my right foot on an edge and it fell away to nothingness and I landed on my left folded leg and hand. Nothing more serious than a slight cut to the shin and a hand full of gorse prickles but it served as a reminder to stay away from the edge and always be vigilant.

The weather was very warm and I was getting through a lot of water. At a white beacon I stopped, had two snickers and all the water from a half litre bottle. It meant that including the coke I had drunk over three litres so far.

By now a heavy sea mist had blown in that was starting to turn into drizzle. Eventually I reached Polperro which had taken forever. I enquired at a local post office about bed and breakfast because I didn't fancy handling the tent in the damp and was directed up the road. I diverted purchasing a mini clock for my work desk, then found the 'Fernhill' Bed and Breakfast. A bright cheery fellow called Don showed me the room and said £20 for the night. It was very nice, warm and comfortable, and the hot bath most welcome.

Next page, Day three, 2nd June 03, Polperro to Porthwrinkle.

Previous page, Day one, 31st May 03, St Austell to Par.

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