Monday 2nd June 2003 - Day Three, Polperro to Portwrinkle Prev Next

I started waking quite early, probably as a result of going to sleep early but I still manage to doze on and off until about ten past eight when I made sure my bag was packed, then went for breakfast. I have to say that breakfast was a splendid affair, I stared with museli, a couple of glasses of orange juice, and no sooner had I finished the first then Don my host appeared with an enormous plate filled with a full english all neatly laid out. I demolished the lot and didn't have much room left for the toast that followed. As I finished off he told me that he had been in the merchant navy, then went on to describe some of the history and where he had lived locally. Apparently further along the coast are some huts that clock workers constructed from timbers left after the bombing of Plymouth during World War II. Some years later when the council hand tried to get them removed the owners had obtained long leases and freehold rights, so they are still there to this day. He also told me about the measured nautical mile as you approach Looe and it is often in front of this that the navy pracise war games.

I eventually got going just after 9, a bit later than I had intended but I had such a good stay and breakfast. The way out of Polperro is down a tiny road, bear right at the fork and through 'The Warrens'. This becomes a path that climbs upwards. About halfway up I was already warm enough so took off my sweatshirt and applied suncream as the weather was already looking good in contrast to the previous evening. Here the path was definitely easier walking than the other side of Polperro.

Shortly further on I dropped into Porthallow then up the other side, at the gate I saw a small lizard sunning itself. It must have still been cold because it didn't run off. As I climbed I could see a large vertical structure with black and white stripes. I guess this was one end of the measured nautical mile. Again the walking was mostly fairly easy with one dip and then a grassy stretch before reaching the outskirts of Looe.

Into Looe is all tarmac, the pavement eventually runs out and you have to walk with the traffic for a while but then you can go down to the harbour edge. Looe itself was bussling with activity and I took the opportunity to stock up on fizz, bars and a couple of pasties for lunch and dinner.

Finding my way out of Looe was a bit tricker than finding my way in but by keeping right next to the harbour then following round I eventually came to some likely looking steps that lead upward and they proved to be right, but again more signs would have been helpful. All around this part the path had to go on roads and paths around houses.

At Mildreath Beach the map I had does not show the footpath correctly and I had to backtrack before I went a little further and eventually came to a sign that indicated I was right. The backtrack was down a steep hill that I then had to climb again - grrr.

A turn off the road and into woodland. On a sunny day it's very refreshing going into cool woodland and I love these little stretches. It gives a break from the sun and the cooler, quieter atmostphere in a wood is just so nice. Here the path did one of two things, it either went up or it went down. Going up was hard work and going down was painful because my heels which had got quite sore. Because of the pain in my heels I thought of walking through Seaton and Downderry, noting the B&B's, and picking one but I began to feel better so pressed onto Portwrinkle. My original plan had been to get to the campsite beyond Portwrinkle but this was another four miles. Two things dissuaded me, for one I wasn't going to make it and for two I didn't want to camp.

The climb up out of Downderry was long but on well cleared path that eventually forked right. I think this is a relatively new bit of path and the old one was a left fork that went up to the road. The work on the path looked fairly new and it wasn't worn down to the same extent as most of it. I continued to follow the coast line staying just outside fencing and fields until it entered Portwrinkle by the back door.

I asked an old lady whether she knew of anyone that did Bed and Breakfast whilst her husband was putting their car away. She was able to point out a roof up the hill and gave me directions. I got there and whilst there were no visible marks of a B&B, the lady confirmed that there was and she had spaces. I sipped coffee on the wooden patio in the sunshine while sinking into the chair exhausted after a long days walk. The view from my room was looking over the sea through patio doors, it was great. So was the large bathroom with bold tiles, candles and a sunken bath. Someday I'd like a bathroom like that.

Next page, Day four, 3 June 03, Portwrinkle to Plymouth and home.

Previous page, Day two, 9th June 02, Par to Polperro.

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