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BackGroundThis is the second crossbow built, following on from the rising pin Skåne Lockbow design. The specific objectives were to build something that was of "later period" with a roller lock mechanism, and more powerful to enable use of more accurate period bolts for target use. Period materials where used whenever possible. |
There appears to be little or no primary evidence available for late 12th and early 13th century crossbows (publications such as Alm show exactly zero examples), most pieces being late fourteenth century at the earliest. There is little first hand documentation on construction methods (making composite prods is now a lost art, although the theory is understood), and most period illustrations suffer from artistic license (e.g. bows rotated through 90 degress with respect to the tiller). That said, there are a number of "typical" features:
Even given artistic licence, manuscripts consistently appear to show two distinct shapes of tiller:
The latter design was opted for.
The main problem with a roller lock is how to cut the recess (saddle) in the tiller for the roller. The recess is slightly more than half a cylinder, which prevents the roller from falling out. Such a shape is very difficult to cut accurately, even with modern tools. In later designs, horn or antler inserts for the front and rear were cut to match the roller, and then inserted into the tiller, which means the exercise becomes less problematic. In order to get round this, the saddle was drilled from the side with a hole saw for accuracy, and a side panel of ash was recessed into the tiller. The slot for the trigger arm was bored into the base of the saddle from the lower edge of the tiller, then shaped with chisels.
The track for the bolt was cut by hand with a gouge, and finished with sandpaper wrapped around a bolt shaft. A round hole was bored a the front of the tiller to accomodate the bridle.
Prod
As with the constrcution of any wooden bow, the prod needs tillering, and exercising to "teach the wood to bend". This is accomomplished using a tillering board (see any book on bow construction for detail) scaled down for the short size and draw length of the prod. Especially in the case of higher poundage prods such as this, it can be a problem to get the thing bending intially - I have resorted to supporting the ends on wooden blocks and using full bodyweight at the centre via a carefully placed foot.
Failing to adequately exercise the prod will inevitably result in it breaking at some point when drawn - been there, got the T-shirt.
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Release Mechanism
The roller nut was hand filed from the crown (base) of a piece of antler. Due to the size of the available antler, the nut is slightly on the small side (dia x width). A wedge shaped sear of hardened and tempered steel was inset into the base of the nut for the trigger (tickler) to bear on to prevent wear (a little non-period araldite was used to fix this in place). The fingers at the top of the nut hold the string, with the back of the bolt being placed between them. There is no pivot through the centre of the nut - it just sits in the saddle. TicklerForged from 10mm square iron bar in what is basically a "Z" shape. with a 5mm steel pin through the upper bend of the "Z" to provide the pivot. The action was slightly loose - couple of washers either side of the ticker were used. There is no reinforcement of the tiller around the pivot, no springs ae used in the mechanism. As the tickler is pressed, it disengages the sear underneath the nut, the nut can then rotate, allowing the string to more forward. |
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Roller lock in cocked position |
Roller lock prior to cocking, sear just visible |
This attaches the prod (bow) to the tiller (stock), and is made of jute string - as many turns as was needed. The bridle can loosed slightly in dry air, but a little water causes it to tighten.
StirrupForged from 10mm square iron bar. I tried to forge weld the two ends, but failed miserably - a steel rivet is hidden under the bridle. Very proud of the decorative twist!
StringAbout 50 turns of "Barbour No. 18" Irish linen thread. Breaking strain per strand is about 18 pounds.
Reloading aidsNone - put one foot in the stirrup, draw back the string with two hands over the nut, and (if you're lucky) the ticker will engage the sear and lock. Some initial experiments with a single hook spanning belt resulted in a broken prod, the replacement prod having a lower draw weight of 100lbs at 8.5 inches.
BoltsThree types have been used, all about 13.5 inches long, made of 11mm pine dowel.
Use
Sighting using the tip of the bolt head, the aim is low by about about 2 feet at thirty yards, point blank at fifty. The bolts will easily pierce a shield at 50 yards (or go an inch into the sandstone backstop if you miss!) Originally, the nut had a tendency to leap out of the saddle when fired, especially when used with lighter bolts. A period solution of a binding consisting of two turns of (artificial) sinew through the centre of the nut has solved this, and also any tendency for the nut to jam in the saddle when being rotated to the cocking position.
Bibliography:
Payne-Gallwey, Ralph; The Crossbow, Dover Press, 1995
Wilson, G M (ed.) & Bartlett Wells, H (trans.); European crossbows: a survey, Royal Armouries, 1994
Nicolle, D; Arms and Armour of the Crusading Era 1050-1350, Greenhill Books,1999
Paterson, W. F.; A guide to the crossbow, Society of Archer Antiquaries, 1990